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Definitions and Terms


Alloy

 A mixture of two or more metals

Annealing 
The process of heating metal and then cooling it to render the metal more pliable
 
Assaying
 Process of determining the proportions of precious metal contained in a piece of gold or silver
 
Assay Hallmark 
Hallmark showing the office which assayed the metal used in a piece of jewelry (English)

 
Bezel
 Gemstone setting where a strip or wall of metal encircles the gemstone



Bijouterie 
Art of working in gold and enamel


Borax
 A flux used in soldering



Brass
 An alloy of copper and zinc

Bronze
 An alloy of approximately 8 parts copper to 1 part tin


Cameos
 A design cut in relief, usually into a hard stone or shell



Cannetille
 A type of gold or silver filigree of fine twisted wires forming a coiled spiral, used in early nineteenth century jewelry (Georgian period)

Casting 
Process of forming an object by pouring a molten or liquid substance into a mold until it solidifies and takes on the impression of the mold


Electroplating
 A method in which an electric current deposits a layer of metal on an object (i.e.: gold over a base metal)


Etching
 Removal of part of a metal surface by acid for a decorative effect


Filigree
 Wire twisted into patterns, usually gold or silver, may be soldered to a sheet of metal or twisted to form an openwork pattern



Flux
 Material used in soldering


Fob
 A small charm, amulet or trinket that hangs on a watch chain or chatelaine


Gilding
 A process of covering substances such as silver, base metal, wood with a thin layer of gold or an alloy

Granulation  
The process of decorating a metal surface with tiny grains of metal


Hallmarking  
Marks stamped on gold, silver or platinum by assay offices after the metal has been tested and determined to contain the proper amount of precious metals required by law

Horn
  A substance often used as a substitute for tortoiseshell which is from cow horns



Ingot  
A precious metal formed into a bar or brick by pouring molten metal into a mold



Inlay
  Materials such as stones, gems, woods and metals are inserted and cemented into the surface of another material and ground down to create a smooth surface


Intaglio
  The carving or engraving of a design into a gemstone which is the opposite of a cameo which is in high relief



Ivory   African ivory is from the tusk of a male or female elephant whereas Indian ivory is from the male only

Jet  
Fossilized coal, often known as Whitby jet for the area of England where much of it came from or black jet


Lost Wax Method
  The method of casting metal that uses a rubber mold, which is filled with wax to form a pattern from which a plaster mold is made. The plaster is heated and the wax melts away or is “lost”

Memorial jewel
  Jewel that is made in memory of a loved one, often containing hair from that person and frequently decorated with enamel

Milanese Chain
  Chain consisting of interwoven rows of small links forming a mesh 


Millegrain
  A decorating style creating a fine bead like effect around the edge of a metal collet; popular in the Edwardian and Belle Époque periods


Palladium
  A white precious metal belonging to the platinum group, it weighs a little more than half as much as platinum and sells for half the price


Parure
  A suite of matching jewelry usually four or more pieces, a necklace, bracelets, earrings and belt or brooch



Passamenterie
  Jewelry inspired by furniture trimmings such as cording



Paste  
A high content leaded glass which is faceted to imitate diamonds or backed with colored foils to imitate other gemstones. Also known as strass after Frederic Strass who invented this method in the 18th Century



Patina
  Discoloration that forms on metals such as silver and bronze but often planned for in the artist’s design, can also be introduced artificially by use of chemicals


Pavé Setting  
A stone setting technique whereby the entire surface of a jewel is covered or paved with closely set stones

Pique  
Tortoiseshell or horn which is inlaid with mother-of-pearl, silver or gold


Planishing
  A hammering process done to give a smoother finish to a piece of metal



Platinum  
A non-corrosive silver white metal, which is heavy and has a high tensile strength


Repoussé
  A raised high relief design on the front of a metal object made by hammering, embossing or punching the reverse side of the metal to form the design from the back side out



Rhinestone
  Rock crystal which is faceted into beads, originally from the Rhine River



Rivière
  Choker type necklace that is a continuous line of gemstones usually of graduated or equal size stones



Rolled Gold  
Early 19th century type of goldplating


Soldering
  A method of joining metal parts or pieces together by melting another metal alloy with a lower melting temperature at the joining point


Terminal
  The decorated ends of a necklace or bangle usually with stylized heads of a ram, lion, dragon, etc

Tremblant  
Jewelry with a trembling effect when the wearer moved produced by elements set upon stiff wires that move (en tremblant)


Vermeil
  Gold-plated or gilded silver, 2.5 microns of 14 karat or 18 karat gold on top of sterling silver