Definitions and Terms
Alloy A mixture of two or more metals
Annealing The process of heating metal and then cooling it to render the metal more pliable
Assaying Process of determining the proportions of precious metal contained in a piece of gold or silver
Assay Hallmark Hallmark showing the office which assayed the metal used in a piece of jewelry (English)
Bezel Gemstone setting where a strip or wall of metal encircles the gemstone
Bijouterie Art of working in gold and enamel
Borax A flux used in soldering
Brass An alloy of copper and zinc
Bronze An alloy of approximately 8 parts copper to 1 part tin
Cameos A design cut in relief, usually into a hard stone or shell
Cannetille A type of gold or silver filigree of fine twisted wires forming a coiled spiral, used in early nineteenth century jewelry (Georgian period)
Casting Process of forming an object by pouring a molten or liquid substance into a mold until it solidifies and takes on the impression of the mold
Electroplating A method in which an electric current deposits a layer of metal on an object (i.e.: gold over a base metal)
Etching Removal of part of a metal surface by acid for a decorative effect
Filigree Wire twisted into patterns, usually gold or silver, may be soldered to a sheet of metal or twisted to form an openwork pattern
Flux Material used in soldering
Fob A small charm, amulet or trinket that hangs on a watch chain or chatelaine
Gilding A process of covering substances such as silver, base metal, wood with a thin layer of gold or an alloy
Granulation The process of decorating a metal surface with tiny grains of metal
Hallmarking Marks stamped on gold, silver or platinum by assay offices after the metal has been tested and determined to contain the proper amount of precious metals required by law
Horn A substance often used as a substitute for tortoiseshell which is from cow horns
Ingot A precious metal formed into a bar or brick by pouring molten metal into a mold
Inlay Materials such as stones, gems, woods and metals are inserted and cemented into the surface of another material and ground down to create a smooth surface
Intaglio The carving or engraving of a design into a gemstone which is the opposite of a cameo which is in high relief
Ivory African ivory is from the tusk of a male or female elephant whereas Indian ivory is from the male only
Jet Fossilized coal, often known as Whitby jet for the area of England where much of it came from or black jet
Lost Wax Method The method of casting metal that uses a rubber mold, which is filled with wax to form a pattern from which a plaster mold is made. The plaster is heated and the wax melts away or is “lost”
Memorial jewel Jewel that is made in memory of a loved one, often containing hair from that person and frequently decorated with enamel
Milanese Chain Chain consisting of interwoven rows of small links forming a mesh
Millegrain A decorating style creating a fine bead like effect around the edge of a metal collet; popular in the Edwardian and Belle Époque periods
Palladium A white precious metal belonging to the platinum group, it weighs a little more than half as much as platinum and sells for half the price
Parure A suite of matching jewelry usually four or more pieces, a necklace, bracelets, earrings and belt or brooch
Passamenterie Jewelry inspired by furniture trimmings such as cording
Paste A high content leaded glass which is faceted to imitate diamonds or backed with colored foils to imitate other gemstones. Also known as strass after Frederic Strass who invented this method in the 18th Century
Patina Discoloration that forms on metals such as silver and bronze but often planned for in the artist’s design, can also be introduced artificially by use of chemicals
Pavé Setting A stone setting technique whereby the entire surface of a jewel is covered or paved with closely set stones
Pique Tortoiseshell or horn which is inlaid with mother-of-pearl, silver or gold
Planishing A hammering process done to give a smoother finish to a piece of metal
Platinum A non-corrosive silver white metal, which is heavy and has a high tensile strength
Repoussé A raised high relief design on the front of a metal object made by hammering, embossing or punching the reverse side of the metal to form the design from the back side out
Rhinestone Rock crystal which is faceted into beads, originally from the Rhine River
Rivière Choker type necklace that is a continuous line of gemstones usually of graduated or equal size stones
Rolled Gold Early 19th century type of goldplating
Soldering A method of joining metal parts or pieces together by melting another metal alloy with a lower melting temperature at the joining point
Terminal The decorated ends of a necklace or bangle usually with stylized heads of a ram, lion, dragon, etc
Tremblant Jewelry with a trembling effect when the wearer moved produced by elements set upon stiff wires that move (en tremblant)
Vermeil Gold-plated or gilded silver, 2.5 microns of 14 karat or 18 karat gold on top of sterling silver